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Don't come to Italy expecting an easygoing Mediterranean culture."Italy is a fast, rough, tough country," says Beppe Severgnini, author of La Bella Figura, a witty, clear-eyed anthropological study of his countrymen.In less formal tavernas, you'll see diners reaching over into other people's plates with their hunks of bread—though lately the practice is less common. Often the waiter will show it to you for your selection while it's in the freezer. Greece is not a hurry-up culture, and they're not being rude, just letting you take your time. A service charge of about 12 percent is usually included (check the bill), so just add another 10 percent.DON' T be shocked if people smoke in the nonsmoking section.
Don't season anything—bread, pasta, an entrée—without first trying it. Sometimes you'll get bread with a little diced tomato or olive oil to start your meal. They do; in fact, they'll include it in a general cover charge, or which includes water and amuse-bouches. "If they think that something should be eaten with cheese, they'll offer it," says Locatelli.Ask and you'll probably receive—along with, perhaps, a few Italian jokes at your expense.